Friday, September 2, 2016

Interview with The Blenderist, Chocolate Codex, Jasmine Lukuku

Interview with The Blenderist, Chocolate Codex, Jasmine Lukuku

By Victoria Cooksey

I first talked with Jasmine Lukuku during a live chat on tasting chocolate while earning my Mastering Chocolate Flavor Certificate from Ecole Chocolat.  Jasmine is so delightful, up beat, and informative! Not only a graduate from Ecole Chocolat as well, Jasmine is also a co-founder of the Chocolate Codex, http://chocolatecodex.com/, a great source for tasting notes on several fine chocolate bars. She also has The Blenderist website, http://theblenderist.com/, full of her own recipe creations, many of which contain chocolate.  On top of that she also has a design business too! http://pleaserxvp.com/ Whew, she is one creative lady!!!

I want to give her a big thank you for answering my questions on her memories of chocolate, chocolate tasting tips, her upcoming projects, what exactly is aquafaba, and much more for this blog interview post.  Awesome! Enjoy!

Victoria Cooksey:  What is your first memory involving chocolate?

Jasmine Lukuku:  When I was a kid, I was more interested in candy. I loved Liquorice Allsorts and still do. My first real memories of chocolate are from my pre-teen years. My mom would make chocolate pudding from scratch and I would love to eat it warm. 

VC:  How has your certificate in chocolate making from Ecole Chocolat changed your views on using chocolate in your own recipes,  and when you try chocolate creations made my others?  

JL:  My education with Ecole Chocolat expanded my appreciation for flavor pairing. Now, I consider the flavor profile of the chocolate before using it in a recipe. In the past, I would have only looked at the percentage. Now I understand how varied chocolate can be and that is important to acknowledge when you are trying to make a harmonious creation. I also look for the same harmony when I try stuff made my other people. 

VC:  What was your inspiration to start the Chocolate Codex, and how do you choose chocolate bars to review for it? 

JL:  When my boyfriend's parents would go travelling, they would always bring us back special chocolate bars. This got us hooked His father is an incredible chocolatier, so hunting down great chocolate is a priority for him when he travels.

We decided to start Chocolate Codex as a way to catalog and quantify our personal experience with the bars we were tasting. We are design nerds, so we created our own system and graphics to help us organize our tasting notes. 

We don't have a strict criteria for the bars we review; we try to stick with "craft chocolate" but that term is thrown around all loosey-goosey. We research brands and try to find out who is putting in work and care. 

Jasmine Lukuku, The Blenderist 

VC:  What is your personal approach to tasting chocolate, and what has helped you to improve on picking out flavor notes? 

JL:  I approach chocolate tasting in stages. I will do a casual, quick tasting at first to get my instinctual impressions and make a note of them. Later, I go back and do a more focused tasting to complete my tasting notes and write out my thoughts. 

I like to try new fruits, vegetables and spices as a way to build my flavor vocabulary. The more you try, the more you can draw upon when you are tasting chocolate. 

VC:  Any tips on making tasting chocolate less intimidating for consumers who are just discovering the world of fine chocolate? 

JL:  Grab some close friends and just make a social event out of chocolate tasting. Don't be afraid to say the "wrong" thing. If someone tries to make you feel bad about your chocolate tasting skills, they are a bad person. Ignore them. 

VC:  What is the strangest flavor note you ever tasted in a chocolate bar?  What was the worst?

JL:  The strangest flavor note I've ever tasted was dill weed. I am not a fan of dill, so it was a bit of a turn off for me. The worst is not really a flavor note but a flaw, moldy beans. I've had a couple of bars where you can tell that mouldy beans got into the mix. They are inedible. I've kept the bars so I can use them as an example to show people how bad it can be. 

VC:  What are your thoughts on similarities, and differences when it comes to chocolate tasting versus wine tasting? 

JL:  Wine tasting is way ahead as far as public awareness goes. I think that the general population understands the diversity of wine, but not the diversity of chocolate. So, when you say you are doing a chocolate tasting they imagine a bunch of filled bonbons instead of a handful of austere squares of chocolate. It's usually a shock that those little squares can pack so many flavors. So, I would say the similarity is the element of surprise. I've had wines and chocolates (not at the same time) that have made my brain melt because they've been so crazy tasting. 

VC:  Is there anything about the way chocolate bars are advertised, packaged, discussed, or inclusions added to the bars that you find annoying? 

JL:  I'm not a huge fan of chocolate companies that use the superfood/health angle as their main marketing message. I am sure it sells, but it doesn't appeal to me.  As far as inclusions go, I'm pretty open minded...but I don't care much for orange flavored chocolate.

VC:  Chocolate is a part of many of your recipes on The Blenderist site.  Any tips for handling chocolate when baking, or how to pick out the right chocolate for best results in a recipe? 

JL:  I buy my chocolate from a local gourmet supply shop, not the grocery store. It's a bit more expensive, but they have a better selection. I definitely consider the overall composition of the dessert when I'm picking chocolate. I'm usually looking for a pleasing contrast. If I'm not familiar with the flavor profile of a chocolate brand, I'll visit their website and see if they have any flavor notes. That being said, I try to create recipes that are versatile enough to allow for a variety of chocolate choices. 

VC:  While you certainly stay busy with all your creative endeavors are there any new projects that you are working on that you can give us all a hint about?  

JL:  Yes! I'm currently working on a vegan dessert eCookbook. I am not vegan, but I have been experimenting with aquafaba and it is pretty incredible stuff. Aquafaba is the water you drain from a can of chickpeas or other beans. It whips up just like egg whites so you can make meringues! That inspired me to take on the challenge of making a cookbook full of vegan desserts that an omnivore with a serious sweet tooth would love. 
 
VC:  For the grand finale what is your favorite chocolate to eat right now?

JL:  My chocolate stash is totally depleted! I need to go on a trip to restock. Luckily we have some great brands in Canada . I really love Sirene, a maker from my hometown of Victoria and Soma Chocolatemaker from Toronto. Team Canada!

Find out more about Jasmine Lukuku:

Chocolate Codex:  http://chocolatecodex.com/
The Blenderist:  http://theblenderist.com/

Don't forget about yours truly, Victoria Cooksey:

My YouTube recipe, and chocolate review videos:  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCm-lp-lF_wB2oX_592jK9UQ

Thursday, August 25, 2016

Domori Porcelana Criollo 70% Chocolate Bar Review

Often fine chocolate bars will have tasting notes written on the back of the package.  I prefer to taste the bars first, to see what I pick out, and then read what the maker wrote.  Sometimes I get a few tasting notes that are the same, sometimes I don't.  Has the same thing happened to you?  Guess what?  That's totally ok!  We all taste things a little differently.  Example:  There are some wines that have green pepper notes, but there are some people who cannot taste green pepper in the wine, even some wine experts.  The back of this Domori Porcelana bar lists notes of bread, butter, and jam.  See my notes below to find out if I got these, or not, in this bar.

Domori Porcelana Criollo 70% Chocolate Bar:

Color:  Light/medium brown.
Nose:  Some sweetness, malt, fudge, cream.
Texture:  Silky.


Taste:  The flavor builds as it melts, while it smelled sweet it doesn't taste sweet, plums, red fruit.
Finish:  Long finish, some oak notes at the end, some acidity, touch of bitterness, but well balanced, drying to the mouth.  

If  you've had this bar already what notes did you get?  Did they match mine, the makers, or were they completely different?

Thanks for reading!  Catch you next time!

Hungry for more? Check out my chocolate review,and cooking videos on YouTube at:
I also have another food/beverage blog:  http://victoriacookseysrandomdish.blogspot.com/

Thursday, August 18, 2016

Dick Taylor Craft Chocolate Belize Toledo 72% Dark Chocolate Bar Review

The very first Dick Taylor bar I ever had was their black fig bar. If you can find it, be sure to get that one too! The bean to bar chocolate makers are Adam Dick, and Dustin Taylor, and the bars are all made in California.  I'm guessing some of the packaging picture designs might come from the fact that they used to be furniture, and wooden boat makers.

Today I'm reviewing the Dick Taylor Belize Toledo 72% bar.  

Color:  Medium brown.
Nose:  Cocoa powder, fruity, acidic.
Texture:  Very smooth, melts quickly after the first few chews.  


Taste:  Very rich cocoa flavor like a chocolate mousse, tart cherry, some acidity.
Finish:  Long finish, slightly drying yet silky in the mouth feel,some acidity, and a touch of bitterness right at the end.

Have you tried this maker yet?

Check out all of Dick Taylor's bars on their website:  http://www.dicktaylorchocolate.com/

Check out all of my chocolate bar reviews, and cooking videos at:  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCm-lp-lF_wB2oX_592jK9UQ
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Thank you to everyone who has been reading, and sharing my posts, and watching my YouTube videos.  You rock!!

Victoria Cooksey

Friday, August 12, 2016

Amano Chuao Village Venezuela Signature Edition 70% Dark Chocolate Bar Review

Criollo cacao beans are rare, and Chuao is an even more rare version of Criollo that comes from the plantation of Chuao in Venezuela.  It is limited in quantity, so often makers will do limited edition, or signature, bars of it.  Part of the cost of these types of bars is the fact that they are made from very rare beans, and often these rare beans are more susceptible to damage from insects, fungus, etc, which make them harder to grow.  Only a couple percent of all chocolate bars are made from rare cacao beans.  

I recently focused on a Chuao chocolate bar tasting, however, I find the Chuao bars seemed to taste better when tasted just one in a sitting, instead of four of them in a tasting.  In a group many of the bars almost had a musty taste, but when sampled again alone on other days they really shined.  

Amano Chuao Village 70% Dark Chocolate Signature Edition bar:

Color:  Medium brown.
Nose:  Light nose, touch of raisin, floral.
Texture:  Chew a bit before it melts, smooth, creamy.


Taste:  Floral, orange citrus, dutch cocoa powder, touch of acidity, cream.
Finish:  Medium finish with mild citrus acidity, and a hint of oak at the end.

I've had four different bars so far made with Chuao.  Have you tried any?  Would you try one?  What are your thoughts?  

Victoria Cooksey

Check out my chocolate reviews, and cooking videos at:  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCm-lp-lF_wB2oX_592jK9UQ
My other blog:  http://victoriacookseysrandomdish.blogspot.com/
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The best ways to help me keep doing chocolate reviews, and cooking videos is by watching, liking, sharing, and subscribing to my YouTube channel, and sharing links to my blog posts.  Let's get the word out on fine chocolate, so that it remains available in the future!  Thank you in advance!!!

Sunday, August 7, 2016

Interview with The Chocolate Journalist, Sharon Terenzi

I'm extremely pleased to bring you this interview with The Chocolate Journalist, Sharon Terenzi. Sharon is a chocolate blogger, a member of the FCIA  (Fine Chocolate Industry Association), and does a fantastic job at promoting fine chocolate in all it's luscious forms.   In fact, I start every morning by checking her Instagram https://www.instagram.com/thechocolatejournalist/?hl=en for the latest chocolate pics, and news.   Enjoy!!

                                                The chocolate Journalist, Sharon Terenzi

Victoria Cooksey:  What does chocolate mean to you, both as a food, and as it is presented in the world?

The Chocolate Journalist:  To me chocolate means humanity. It is the end product of a long line involving people in different countries, from different backgrounds, with different expertise, coming together to realize one of the most enjoyable foods in the World. A chocolate bar is the sum of races, places, faces. Every time I try a chocolate bar, I like to visualize the care of the cacao farmers, the challenges of the middlemen and the determination of the chocolate makers. Chocolate is a highly “human” product and to me that is the most fascinating aspect of all.

VC:  What is your first memory involving chocolate?

TCJ:  My first memory involving industrial chocolate goes back to when I was 4 years old. My grandfather would pick me up from kindergarten and bring me a Kinder Egg by Ferrero every time, the one that has the suprise inside and has been banned in the US. The anticipation of that moment can't be described with words.

My first memory involving craft chocolate goes back to 2013. I used to work for an Italian food importer in NYC. Whenever I got bored of dealing with wholesale orders and deliveries, I would sneak inside the retail store right next to the office. Somehow I would always find myself in the chocolate isle checking labels and ingredients' lists (an obsession of mine since I was a teenager). That's how I first came in contact with fine chocolate brands like Domori and Guido Gobino.

VC:  What are your goals in covering chocolate?

TCJ:  I started The Chocolate Journalist with the aim to drive consumers' money in the right direction. The further I move people away from industrial chocolate the smells like health dangers, child slavery and environmental destruction, the happier I am. This is why through my blog and Social Media platforms I care to give potential fine chocolate consumers all the tools they need to make conscious choices. At the same time, I also like to help small chocolate makers by giving them public coverage and sharing with them my latest findings from the industry.

VC:  What is the most challenging/frustrating thing about your work in the world of chocolate?

TCJ:  The most frustrating thing is that you can never be 100% sure where the truth stands. Once you get passionate about fine chocolate, you'll think that bars with USDA Organic or Fairtrade stickers are the healthiest and most ethical ones that can be found. But the deeper you dig, the more you realize that those certifications don't really mean anything. Another scenario is that you become a huge fan of a certain brand. Then you participate to a chocolate event and some veteran of the industry reveals you very bad things about the same brand you adore. You get disappointed. But months later you find out that your beloved brand and that person are direct competitors in the same country. Was it the truth or was it just propaganda?
Unfortunately, there is no way to know everything about everybody in one sit. It's a kind of  “knowledge always in progress” and I can only give my best and share the “truth” of the moment.

VC:  Throughout your time covering chocolate, how have you seen attitudes change towards it, both by consumers, producers and farmers?

TCJ:  I started covering fine chocolate in January 2015 when I started my blog. There has been a growing and enthusiastic interest among consumers towards fine chocolate in the past two years. I have seen a lot of blogs about fine chocolate reviews popping up everywhere online, and they really helped small artisan brands get known around the World. On the producing side, I have met many people in their 30-40s tired of their corporate jobs that looked into craft chocolate making to live a more passionate life. The craft chocolate movement is growing and it has no intention to stop.

VC:   If you could bring chocolate farmers/producers/retailers together with any other industry/field what would it be (beer, wine, spirits, etc.)?

TCJ:  I would bring chocolate people together with coffee people. There are many similarities between chocolate and coffee, from the manufacturing process to the countries of origins to the determination of the flavors. I am now researching about Single Origin chocolate bars and bars made with Blends instead, and the parallelisms with coffee are surprising.
Specialty coffee is probably a decade ahead of specialty chocolate in terms of consumer's awareness and appreciation, so I think that chocolate professionals could learn a lot from coffee people, and together they'd make a pretty badass team.

VC:  Forecasts in the chocolate industry predict shortages, as soon as 2020; what, if anything, do you see changing in the way chocolate is sold?

TCJ:  I am in contact with many owners of cocoa plantations around the World, and they are all complaining about the scarcity of this year's crops compared to the past ones. Diseases, adverse weather conditions, high-intensity labor and scarce profitability are the main reasons why a cocoa shortage by 2020 is predicted. Many actions are being taken by both big and small players in the industry to avoid the extinction of one of the best selling foods in the World. Nobody can know how it is going to end; one can only speculate. Nonetheless, a strong trend among consumers of “quality over quantity” is now undeniable. This is why, as I explain in one of my recent articles “Will Mediocre Chocolate Disappear In 10 Years?”, I foresee a big gap between buyers of $1 Hershey bars and $10 craft chocolate bars, without much left in between.

VC:  Given the behind-the-scenes access you have seen in your coverage of chocolate, what are some of the things that the average consumer may not realize about chocolate producers and farmers?

TCJ:

- Certifications don't mean anything.
Cocoa farmers are already trying to survive on a maximum of $2 a day. Having to get any kind of certification to satisfy ignorant consumers means taking on more expenses, more bureaucracy and more compromises with higher powers. For instance, an Organic certification is useless: especially in the fine chocolate industry, all cacao used is organic by default. Craft chocolate makers partner with small cocoa farmers that are too poor to afford pesticides and chemical herbicides even if they wanted to. In industrial chocolate where the big money is at, corruption is daily routine. So I don't see how a sticker on a bar can give any guarantee on their bars too.
Fairtrade certification is useless as well, as I explained in my article “Fairtrade chocolate: debunking the myth”. Rather than letting their purchases being dictated by labels, consumers should get in touch with the chocolate makers and ask directly. Who has nothing to hide will gladly entertain them with precious info.
- Chocolate makers that sell $10 bars struggle every day to make ends meet. There is no money in craft chocolate to be made. When chocolate makers ask $10 for 2 oz of handmade chocolate, there is no overcharge applied or big profit involved. Between pricey raw materials and expensive supply chains, the fine chocolate industry is not a territory for wannabe millionaires. The life of chocolate makers is no #lifegoals unless true passion and spirit of sacrifice are part of the picture.


VC:   What would you recommend as gateway fine chocolate bars for those people who are interested in getting into fine chocolate, but have only experienced bars from the grocery store?  Any recommendations for fine chocolate with those on a budget?

TCJ:  I'd suggest for them to keep in mind that for the price of a sandwich they can get THE BEST chocolate in the World. The same can't be said for “the best” of other foods. You can't have a prestigious bottle of wine for $10. But for that same price you can get a bar of chocolate made with rare cocoa beans from Venezuela and handcrafted by the most expert hands. Fine chocolate is the most affordable gourmet food of all. Plus, I haven't noticed so far much discrepancy between the quality of a bar and the money asked for it. Craft chocolate makers are truly honest and 98% of the time you get what you pay for. So when you see big prices, remember that they often match the quality inside.

VC:  In your experience how is chocolate viewed differently around the world?

TCJ:  Food goes hand in hand with people's culture and traditions. Chocolate is no different.
For instance, the Asian market has been a profitable one for chocolate companies in the past decade (even though it is now slowing down) since chocolate has never been part of the traditional Eastern Asian cuisine, like it has always been for European countries like Belgium and Switzerland. Therefore, once East Asia opened up to the rest of the World thanks to the globalization, they started going crazy for chocolate and demanded more and more of it. Other countries have instead different stories.
India for instance has only been in contact with Cadbury's chocolate for a long period of time, since the country in the past denied imports to the Indian market to any other foreign chocolate company. I have many Indian friends that identify “chocolate” with “Cadbury”. Now things are slowly changing for India too, as I know that some Indian bean-to-bar chocolate makers are now starting their business following the example of the American craft chocolate movement.
Each country has a different story with chocolate.

VC:  Lastly, at the risk of bias, what is you favorite chocolate to eat right now?

TCJ:  I will tell you 3 bars that I truly enjoyed recently: PerĂ¹ Nacional 70% by SOMA Chocolatemaker (from Canada); Guayusa Runa by PACARI (from Ecuador); Canuto-Manabi 70% by Montecristi Chocolate (from Ecuador).

The Chocolate Journalist, Sharon Terenzi & Victoria Cooksey, Dark Matters Fine Chocolate Reviews hanging out at the NW Chocolate Festival 2016, in Seattle, WA.



A huge shout out to The Chocolate Journalist, Sharon Terenzi, for taking the time to answers these questions!!!

Victoria Cooksey

Thursday, August 4, 2016

Marou Ben Tre 78% Dark Chocolate Bar Review

The first time I tried this Marou Ben Tre 78% dark chocolate bar I wasn't sure what to think because it tasted so different then any other chocolate bar I've tried.  I kept sampling pieces of it over the course of a couple weeks, and now I really like it!  

With wine tastings I recommend taking at least 3 sips to see if you like the wine, or not, and I feel the same about chocolate tastings.  Take a few bites, have some more on another day. Even bars (and wines) I love instantly often change in taste, or express additional flavors when tried on another day.  When it comes to how things taste so much varies on time of day, mood, if you've had other food/beverages to eat, etc. 


Color;  Medium/dark brown.
Nose:  Chai tea latte, cinnamon.
Texture:  Pleasant texture, chew it for a couple seconds before it melts.
Taste:  The first time I tried this bar I got hit with tons of lavender/floral tastes, but ever since I've tried it on other days I get less floral, and much more cinnamon notes, and some all spice.
Finish:  Drying notes to the mouth, chai tea, cinnamon, touch of cocoa powder.  

This is the 2nd Marou bar I've had, and I look forward to trying more of their bars soon!

Marou on Instagram:  https://www.instagram.com/marouchocolate/?hl=en
Marou:  http://marouchocolate.com/

Victoria Cooksey:  https://www.instagram.com/victoria.cooksey/?hl=en
Catch all my cooking, and chocolate review videos at:  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCm-lp-lF_wB2oX_592jK9UQ


Monday, August 1, 2016

Soma Chocolatemaker Stratus Bar Batch 9 review (aged on ice wine lees)

Soma Chocolatemaker is a bean to bar maker located in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, and basically everything I've had from there is awesome!  Whenever I've emailed them to place an order they get back to me very quickly too. 

Their Stratus Bar Batch 9 is rather unique because they roast Nacional beans from Ecuador, and then place the nibs in oak wine barrels containing some ice wine lees from Stratus Vineyards. (Lees refers to the dead yeast cells left over after fermenting wine.  You've probably seen Champagne mentioned as "Sur Lie" meaning it was aged on lees which gives a lovely yeasty, toasty, and/or nuttiness to the nose, and taste of the Champagne). 

This bar was awarded Silver in the 2015 International Chocolate Awards.


Color:  Medium/dark brown.
Nose:  Lemon, grape.
Texture:  Smooth, medium-bodied texture.
Taste:  Bright, acidic, lemon, raspberries, grape, oak.
Finish:  Long finish with the acidity, and oak.

If you are into drinking chocolate then check out their Dark of the Mug.  Thick, rich, and amazing!

Soma Chocolatemaker:  http://www.somachocolate.com/
Instagram:  https://www.instagram.com/somachocolatemaker/

Watch, like, subscribe, and share all of my cooking, and chocolate review videos at:  
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCm-lp-lF_wB2oX_592jK9UQ

Victoria Cooksey on Instagram:  https://www.instagram.com/victoria.cooksey/?hl=en